GOBU2014: To Kill a Tsetse Fly (and outrun a Hippo) by Monica Leigh

(Warning: the adaptation of the title of a novel may be some indication as to the length of this post)

We arrived a Red Chilli Headquarters on Sunday evening and settled into our dormitory housing. We were able to enjoy a lovely time of fellowship with our dear friend from last year's trip, Timo, and our new friend, Franklin. Both are medical students and will be leading our trip to the islands on Lake Victoria.

We rose early on Monday morning and boarded two vans bound for Murchison Falls National Park and our safari expedition. We experienced our first true rush hour in Kampala as we exited the city. After finally getting free of the traffic, one of the vans broke down. As a result we experienced a very long and hot game of sardines for the next five hours of our drive. All ten members of our team, a British woman in our tour group, and the driver crammed in a van that seats no more than 10. This was the first of many African moments we would share over the next three days. We made the best of our situation and were soon rewarded with breathtaking views at Murchison Falls (an amazingly powerful falls on the Nile River that breaks the Victoria Nile).

As we traveled to the falls and on from there to our campground within the park, we encountered baboons and tsetse flies. We had to frequently close the van windows to prevent swarms of flies from invading. I actually became quite adept at killing the flies and we all got a great laugh out of our driver exclaiming to one fly "I kill you"!

We finally arrived at our destination, the Red Chilli Hideway (a campground within the National Park) around 5pm. We stayed in pairs in army style tents with dorm-style beds in them. The Hideway is much like an American-style campground complete with an outdoor restaurant. We enjoyed our evening together over a hot and hearty meal as well as visiting with other college groups on safari. While we were eating, Kailey returned from an errand at her tent exclaiming "Warthogs are at our tents eating our leftovers"! We had been warned multiple times that nothing eatable or pleasant smelling could ever be in our tents as the warthogs would break in and take it. Thankfully, our leftover PBJs were in a box outside of Kari & Quel's tents. Needless to say, we encountered some VERY happy warthogs (there was even strawberry jelly on the snout of one)!

As we finally made our way to the tents to turn in for the night, we saw our first hippo who was cruising through the campground grazing on grass. We also discovered the incredible beauty of the night sky in Africa. I'm not sure we have ever been in a more remote place on the planet and the results were awe inspiring. Haylee and I decided to take advantage of the views and sat outside to read, journal, and visit. While chatting, the hippo approached from the side of our tent and made his way directly to us (seemingly unphased by our presence). Once he got within about four feet of us, we decided to clear the way for him. We moved across the path to the front of Kailey and Megan's tent but he continued his grazing in our general direction. We moved down to the front of Kari and Quel's tent. The hippo passed by and moved around to the front of a Banda (small cabin) that was caticorner behind Kari and Quel's tent. The Banda had a bright front porch light and I decided this was the most conducive opportunity for a photo. Once I realized the hippo was backlit, I circled back around the tent to get the picture from a better angle. As I leaned in for the picture, the hippo swung around quickly and locked eyes with me. I knew I was in trouble as he made a shockingly quick move to charge me. I've never moved more quickly or more strategically in my life! I spun around the tent as I knew I couldn't outrun him if I remained in his line of site. Haylee was waiting and practically shoved me into the tent with Quel and Kari. I later learned that hippos kill more people in Africa than any other animal. Needless to say, I have newfound respect for this docile yet fierce creature! I'm grateful for Haylee, Quel, and Kari as they shifted into protection mode in a crisis situation.

Tuesday was absolutely incredible! We spent over four hours on safari getting to see warthogs, hippos, antelopes, giraffes, baboons, Ugandan cobs (antelope like creatures), bushbucks, and water bucks. We were even able to get close to three lions! I'm not sure which I enjoyed more...seeing these amazing creatures or the sheer joy on the students' faces (especially Jen's as she encountered her beloved giraffes in the wild). After our safari, we took a three hour cruise on the Victoria Nile to the base of Murchison Falls. We enjoyed the sun, stunning views, and sightings of hippos, African buffalos, and, finally, a large group of elephants! Haylee and Kailey were especially thrilled to see their favorite animal.

On Wednesday morning, we took one last safari ride populated by many elephants, giraffes, gazelles, and antelopes. Our drive back allowed a stop at Karuma falls for a picnic lunch. After many frustrating traffic jams traveling into and out of Kampala, we arrived in Mityana having spent the better part of 15 hours in a van!!!

What a blessing to shower and sleep in order to rise to serve a local woman in the community by working in her garden. Mbetaga is in a Study group led by Krisann and it was an honor for us to be able to bless her by clearing her garden of weeds.

Our safari experience provided a beneficial respite in the midst of our work and cultural learning. We are eagerly anticipating the many opportunities that our final week in Uganda will bring.

Our next post will feature an entry by Megan on Sunday who will share a report on the work the Mityana group does while the rest of us are on the islands. The island group will be completely offline once we board the ferry in Entebbe on Friday afternoon. I will share our experience in a post on Monday evening.

Please continue to lift us up...

*Health and rest. The girls are beginning to show signs of fatigue as we transition into our final week.

*Safety as Quel, Sienna, Emma, Kailey, Jen, and Monica travel to and work on the islands in a medical clinic from Friday to Monday. This will be a challenging experience as we encounter a different area of Uganda (one that is much more primitive than any we have seen thus far).

*Opportunities for Kimberly, Megan, Kari, and Haylee as they continue serving in Mityana. There are a number of cool things in the works.

*Sleep as an exhibition begins near our compound in Mityana. This is a very loud fair-like event which will begin Friday and be ongoing through the remainder of our time here. The music and noise frequently lasts till 5am.